Fashion East is Lulu Kennedy’s non-profit organization of young designers known for showing their talents to the world. Well, this season, the shockingly… refined nature of these three designers has become a factor in attention.
Watching Michael Stewart for his Standing Ground label, Joanna Parv and Carolina Vitto showcasing very unique and very different clothes, people are getting bigger and bigger. Feel as if here are three crafty men using their wits to open up new perspectives on the lives of women in today’s world. The avant-garde take on their personal, complete wardrobe system can wow audiences, certainly reflecting the stagnation of womenswear design over the past few years – or at least an equally fluid development – in the shadow of more forward thinking in menswear.
But not now! A renaissance of designers focused on women’s bodies, minds and lifestyle suddenly became a reality on a London morning as the trio joined Sinead O’Dwyer and Dee Petsa in a fiercely feminist collection.
Michael Stewart (the only male in the group) led the Fashion East show with a haute couture obsession, incorporating modernity into the concept of loose, elongated, bodycon evening gowns. “I wanted soft, smooth roundness,” he says. “Everything is created by me.” His nearly flawless boulders of monochrome construction, like the strapless pink knit dress that looked so simple at the opening, made an impression in times of trouble. Deep effect, sheer volume ate up most of the attention on the red carpet.
It takes a perfectionist to bring out this apparent simplicity, and it’s not just cutting off the front and back and sewing the side seams. Stewart designed invisible corsets and thin hip pads even under his tight-fitting Donegal tweed coats. At the same time, the sculptural nature of his work lay in the fact that they flowed around the body, creating interesting side views and back curtains (pink burnt velvet was especially good). In other words, it’s a well-crafted alternative for women who want to stand out on the red carpet.
Johanna Parv explores another forgotten theme in the lives of modern women: design solutions for moving from point A to point B as a city commuter. Her collections combine sportswear with a powerful elegance based on her personal experience as a cyclist and runner. “It’s important to be able to talk about functional or technical outerwear from a woman’s point of view,” she says.
While studying at Central Saint Martins in Massachusetts, she was on duty on a busy street near King’s Cross Station, filming women speeding by on bicycles, often struggling to carry bags and gear back and forth in all weather. “Do you know how we protect your beautiful expensive handbag, as well as your jumpsuit or evening dress, when you move around the city?” Among them, “Sportswear” is primarily designed for men and men.
The fast-paced flamboyance of her designs showcased her system in layered hybrids of leggings with stirrups, biker shorts, slit skirts and asymmetric tunic dresses. Waterproof covers are at the heart of her approach to adaptive fashion. She designed the straps to carry the bag safely while riding. There’s also a “top shirt” and a “coat,” practical pieces she’s supposed to wear for everyday wear. As they move through the space, the Parva women in a hurry show how to unzip, fold, and fasten clothing for a quick getaway and a quick transition. The elegantly polished fashion of winning the everyday pentathlon is indeed a reality for many women today.
Enhancing, enhancing and embellishing the female body and strength with chic, sophisticated designs is also a theme for Caroline Vitto. “It’s all about showing the curves and folds of the body, which I find beautiful.” Dismantling social taboos around the female body is a collective pursuit of pleasure that unites many rising young female designers. Vitto’s work emphasizes that everyone brings their own aesthetics and skills to it.
In her fall looks, the use of silver metallics simply shone, with loops running between the cutouts of a long-sleeved black loose dress and black jumpsuit, and the spaghetti straps dangled from the neckline. According to her, this is an adjustable system, which she first experimented with at the Royal College of Art.
You can feel how sassy Vitto women love to dwell in her elegant, sensual collections. “It’s common for casting directors and showrunners to advise models not to wear hip wings when walking,” says Vito. “But we wanted to go further. Persistent! To me,” she laughs, “I think this woman is both charming and mysterious. She is my alter ego. How I wish I could be like this every day!”
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Post time: Mar-14-2023